Michael Keenan and his team selected this reserve from the Big K vineyard, where their estate cabernet sauvignon vines were 17 years old; Keenan attributes the wine’s incipient complexities to their maturity. This has the elegant austerity and youthful restraint of a wine grown at high elevations, catching the morning sun. The flavors start out black, revealing hints of floral strawberries and cardamom. Savory and nuanced, this wine’s structural tension will carry it for a decade or more in the cellar. Only 1,000 cases made.