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Domaine du Nozay Sancerre is fermented naturally and raised entirely in small stainless steel tanks—rounder and more “egg-shaped” than typical cylindrical vessels in order to promote constant motion of the fine lees—our first vintage of Domaine du Nozay’s flagship cuvee shows impressive complexity. To understand his vineyards as intimately as possible, Cyril vinifies and ages each individual parcel separately (no matter how small) and blends only before the time of bottling—a painstaking regimen. With a broad, flinty mineral core of palate-staining intensity, this cuvee positively bristles with energy, a testament to its supremely healthy biodynamically wrought grapes of origin. The fruit here stops well short of overt Sauvignon Blanc gooseberry, offering notes of lime zest, musk melon, and salty peach on a bright but not squeaky-sterile frame. It’s refreshing to encounter a Sancerre that shows excellent typicity yet speaks more of the rocks beneath the soil than the fruit suspended above it.